Musings of a Gallivanting Boy

Fashion to Columbia

2011-10-08T19:51:00.003-04:00

I've been absent, this I know.

It's really weird how it happened, just sort of all at once. I was blogging here and then opportunity after opportunity began to knock, and responsibility after responsibility began to submit itself and before I knew it, Musings of a Gallivanting Boy had been put on an unofficial hiatus and about a month ago went to a full, official hiatus.

While it sucked abandoning the child I'd birthed and reared, he had completed his assigned task. The point of the blog was to give me a platform from which to launch into other work... and that I've most certainly done.

As of now I'm a writer, PR person, and part editor. All of this comes in addition to being a student. Easy tasks they are not but, they certainly are preparing me for a future in this industry. I'm not the only one maturing in fashion though.

It seems that the entire Columbia fashion industry is maturing, and progressing. This past week alone the city was privy to an exclusive Tibi Fall/Holiday Fashion Event as well as the kick off of the Urban Outfitters: Store on Tour pop-up shop. Both events were tasteful, targeted directly to the right individuals and well executed. I really did enjoy them.

Because of the many obligations there's no way I'll be able to pour into this blog all of what I once had. There just aren't enough hours in the day for me to be able to. But I'm not leaving.

As I never did do show reviews for the Spring 2012 shows - and can we pllllleaassee discuss all of the insane scheduling problems that are cropping up for next year - I do plan on going back and taking an in depth look at some of the collections, so at the very least there's that to look forward to.

There are other ideas for content but I was once told that if you keep your mouth shut about things, people can't hold you to your word... so I'm going to try to employ that tactic.

But until the next post.

Armani Prive Couture Fall 2011

2011-07-06T08:04:00.005-04:00

label Armani Prive Haute Couture
season Fall 2012

The couture shows have begun and if one thing is certain, it's that the idea of the east has caught hold. Viewed most prominently last season at couture weeks when Riccardo Tisci presented the Givenchy Haute Couture on a cast of strictly Asian models, the trend pops back up in a number of different forms and shows, one being the Armani Prive Haute Couture show.

It sometimes takes watching the video for you to get the full effect of a show. Watching Armani's Fall 2011 couture show put the concept of a modern day geisha into motion. With obi belts cinching waists tight and silk with beautiful watercolor floral prints as the material of choice for most of the collection, it was hard to not make the connection. Giorgio Armani's geishas are not quite as dependent as their predecessors though, with slim cut pant suits, allowing a better range of motion, and belts that tie in the front as opposed to the back. Fans have seemingly been replaced with glamorous evening clutches and bows have been given dual purpose as pockets and design flourishes.

Calvin Klein Spring 2012 Model Rollcall

2011-07-04T11:21:00.008-04:00

model Austin Hall(exclusive)
agency New York Models
label Calvin Klein
season Spring 2012

There once was a time when bookings for runway shows really had sway in campaign bookings for models. Stars on the catwalks normally were also stars in each sector of the industry but as this industry has evolved and changed the importance of runway bookings has seemed to diminish. Besides a few select shows, runway standouts and exclusive bookings have come to mean nothing.

One of the shows that has seemed to retain it's influence in casting is that of Calvin Klein. Each season the exclusives as well as the opening and closing models for the show are almost always labeled as faces to watch. This season it was Dmitriy Tanner of Soul who snagged both the opening and closing slots of the show. The tattooed model also walked for the show last season.

models Alfred Kovac, Austin Hall, Bobby Rake, Claudio Monteiro

models David Hundertmark, Diego Fragoso, Dmitriy Tanner, Jack O'Hara
models Jack Vanderhart, Jae Yoo, Jakob Wiechmann, Jesper Soderman

models Jesse Shannon, Jonathan Nielssen, Matt Woodhouse, O'Shea Robertson

models River Viiperi, Ryan Tift, Sebastian Sauve, Timmi Radicke

Caesar Stovall #malemodelmonday

2011-06-27T12:02:00.005-04:00

model Caesar Stovall at Red
label Givenchy
season Spring 2012

A few days ago I got tipped off that something big was in store for a certain model originating from the southeast. A few texts later I had pretty much confirmed that Caesar Stovall formerly of Charlotte North Carolina Fashion Week would be walking in the Givenchy Spring 2012 show. As these things go, I couldn't really tell anyone else but this was just one more thing that was regional or stemmed from something in my region to be excited about.

Currently represented by Red in New York, I first met Caesar in a casting for Charlotte Fashion Week. When he walked in I recognized him from some editorial shots I'd seen by a Columbia local, Travis Teate. He breezed through the casting with just about everyone present in the palm of his hand and was gone.

It's not his muscles that send casters into a proverbial tizzy but instead it's the combination of a near perfect facial structure, and engaging personality. To say this break has been a long time coming is maybe the understatement of the season but I will certainly keep my eye on Monsieur Stovall... who knows he may be shoved into the limelight like Stephen Thompson was.

photo Travis Teate

See more of Caesar.

Rick Owens Spring 2012

2011-06-25T16:18:00.004-04:00

label Rick Owens
season Spring 2012

Every Rick Owens collection is such a religious experience. Watching his videos are like a service and each season I just want to come and lay prostrate before the altar so I can rise and he can clothe me in the folds of one of his monocromatic dresses for men.

To call them dresses though is to misspeak. Surely the word dress with it's connotations of feminine, flimsy, and sometimes even frilly at times, can not describe the piece that Owens presents each season. With their shapeless silhouettes anchored with heavy boots and all done in blacks, grays, and whites with the occasional beige thrown in, it is neither a LaRoque frock or Carolina Herrera gown that comes to mind but instead it's something that is thoroughly and utterly masculine.

The pieces are certainly not for everyone. I find the ones with high backs a little too... adventerous for my tastes but the white numbers that seem evocative of robes are certainly my speed. Even the blazers, which by the way assist in composing the Rick Owens 4 Piece Suit, resonate with me.

Prada Spring 2012

2011-06-20T08:02:00.004-04:00

label Prada
season Spring 2012

I think I've finally put my finger on the strength of Miuccia Prada: crafting ugly.

When you look at a Prada collection it's very frequently composed of looks that are a tad off, and sometimes a bit garish. For example take the Spring 2011 womenswear collection filled with it's banana print skirts and the harsh vibrant hued stoles. Then we have the Fall 2011 Miu Miu collection with it's prominent shoulders and even the Prada collection of the same year with it's dropped waists and "interesting" choice of materials. The pieces, like many of Miuccia's favorite models, are not conventional beauty in the least. They are what I like to call an acquired taste.

This season Miuccia invited the industry into another one of her sets, this time a simple green astroturf floor with blue styrofoam cubes carefully spaced apart for seating. The entire thing read man-made, synthetic even, and most certainly a little saturated. The collection to follow very much followed this beginning with foulard printed baker hats, and even golf bags. The collection seemed to be from the closet of some 70s Americano golfer that frequents historically southern events like Carolina Cup. With what was certainly one of the brightest collections yet, Miuccia once again sets the label apart from the rest of the other menswear collections.

Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2012

2011-06-19T23:07:00.006-04:00

label Calvin Klein Collection
season Spring 2012

To be quite frank, there was nothing new in the collection that Italo Zucchelli sent down the runway this season.

This isn't said to be mean or vindictive but only very matter of fact. With a trouser silhouette that was rocked in the 90s along with t-shirts and tank tops, and even a few pieces of outerwear that were presented last season, for anyone to laud this collection as either ground breaking or "new" would cause me to question either their fashion knowledge or the prescription of their eyeglasses. That being said, not every collection needs to, nor can create something new. There are just not enough things to create and when your aesthetic has become the stripping away of everything, well there's even less than there was before.

That being said we look at the Calvin Klein collection with renewed eyes that see only the utilitarian nature of the pieces. The pieces boil down to exactly the parameters of the Calvin aesthetic: slight silhouette changes on wardrobe basics. While I do feel that the label will have to eventually move on from this aesthetic I do feel there's one more collection or two that the brand can wring out of it.

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2012

2011-06-19T08:58:00.006-04:00

label Burberry Prorsum
season Spring 2012

Every season I have the uncanny feeling that Burberry Prorsum is going to come off as stale, as overdone and rehashed, and almost every season Christopher Bailey proves me wrong.

I never knew that there were so many ways that one could portray an aesthetic based on outerwear and bags. What was even more surprising to me was that in a day of collections that seemed more directed towards winter, a label that's basis is on the coat and the jacket seemed the most season appropriate. While most of this came because of the collection's color palette, the movement of the jackets show how light weight they clearly are. The collection does have some vague allusions to some of the Prada archives but at this point, what collection doesn't? The show ended with me feeling that Bailey had indeed pushed the collection and the house forward once again, even nodding to the brand's technological excellence by sending every model in the finale down with an iPad case.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2012

2011-06-18T23:08:00.005-04:00

label Dolce & Gabbana
season Spring 2012

And it's upon us. Menswear Show season has kicked off in Milan as the languid Resort season winds to a close. First up for our visual consumption: our uncles Dolce and Gabbana.

It's weird that coming off of what seemed like a relatively strong season Domencio and Stefano would present something so... uninspired. With the stated theme of "the net" the collection made me think back to Prada Spring 2010 and the First Spring film that accompanied it. This isn't to say that the Dolce&Gabbana collection was a copy but it most certainly felt familiar. Only seconds after that I felt the same sort of gloomy, apocalyptic feeling that crept over me during the Chanel Fall 2011 showing. Sadly though, it wasn't as convincing. While Uncle Lagerfeld managed to convince me this was a commercially feeble attempt at best. While certainly filled with some strong pieces, from a house of this stature I'd expect a creative direction/vision that I don't find in this collection.

Calvin Klein Collection Resort 2012

2011-06-11T11:08:00.002-04:00

label Calvin Klein Collection
season Resort 2012

Season after season, Francisco Costa shows us that his vision for Calvin Klein is one of a particular type of discipline. This discipline pertains to color, line, and even model selection and makes pieces very distinct even in their utter simplicity.

The Resort 2012 season was no different and yet I found myself thinking of other designers as the collection showed. Michael Lo Sordo who showed in Australia, Thomas Tait who is a growing industry favorite in London were only two. Even the latest collection from fashion blogger Prince Pelayo, which just debuted and in turn makes me think of Davidelfin, came to mind. Other than those pieces I found myself fighting with the flatforms while interested in the closing pieces with their metallic piping.

While I'm sure the pieces will find red carpet success I can't help but wonder has Costa squeezed as much as he can from this type of aesthetic? As the menswear collection seems to be dabbling into other things a little more wholeheartedly, will the womenswear follow? I can only hope so.

Beyonce X Dazed&Confused

2011-06-10T21:08:00.003-04:00

Yeah that just happened. Beyonce looking BEYOND amazing on the cover of Dazed&Confused July 2011. Shot by Sharif Hamza she appears in Givenchy Fall 2011, this time not styled by her official stylist, Ty Hunter. Instead she's styled by Karen Langley.

After seeing the image it only made me recreate the "Why Don't You Love Me" video in all Givenchy Fall 2011. And then I heard "Countdown"(from the leaked album) I just knew it. The next video from the 4 album should be to "Countdown" and the artistic vision of it should be the same held within this image. Beautiful, striking, with just something a little bit gritty about it.

Just another reason haters gone hate.

Tze Goh Fall 2011 Ad Campaign

2011-06-10T00:21:00.007-04:00

As the menswear show season approaches, fashion finds itself in one of those storm before the storm moments: male models are swarming Paris for castings after just having left Rio for fashion week, womenswear labels are slowly but surely cranking out their Resort collections while a select(but growing) few are looking towards the impending couture collections, all while those same houses are debuting their Fall 2011 ad campaigns. One such house, is that of London designer Tze Goh.

Known for his foam molded pieces, Tze Goh is on a very measured rise in the fashion industry. By no means one of overnight success, Goh releases a collection of images that present his Fall 2011 wares in a soft, serene, and yet artistic manner. The pieces will be stocked in London, Antwerp, Brescia, and Milan at LN-CC, Sien, Penelope, and Alan Journo respectively. Sadly there's only womenswear but as Tze is currently working on his Spring 2012 collection, we hope he'll have one or two menswear pieces to introduce to us.

Pink for Resort 2012

2011-06-08T03:00:00.000-04:00

labels McQ, Michael Kors, Bottega Venetta, Oscar de la Renta
season Resort 2012

Yes the resort/cruise shows are off to a solid start and we finally have enough shows for the trend posts I like to do during the pre-seasons. There were a few things that I began quickly catching onto as themes/trends for the Resort 2012 season but it wasn't until the Michael Kors showing that I began to reflect on the pink shown. More specifically I began to reflect on the pink dresses and gowns shown as complete looks and found these.

I found many similarites with the McQ and Michael Kors collections. I found myself a little stunned that a few diffusion labels were curning out resort collections but I couldn't complain, the McQ collection was a solid collection even though I wasn't completely crazy about the acid washed denim. The Michael Kors collection immediately began to make me think of this aquatic theme mixed with a bit of Prada and artistic print. This blended together to bake a bright, collection based mainly on structure with fairly interchangeable pieces.

The Bottega Veneta collection was decidedly not one of my favorites. While a theme was held throughout the leather corsets atop dresses, and added leather bits as well as the fit of some of the garments didn't happen to be my cup of tea. Oscar though, the king of a gorgeous ball gown, he created a collection that I kind of loved. An avid lover of art myself, Oscar de la Renta took inspiration from the Cubists and created a collection that could sum up any chic woman's wardrobe.

Rhythm at the River

2011-06-05T17:00:00.004-04:00

Last week right before I went to the Man2Man event I went down to the RiverWalk and took in the Rhythm at the River event. Since I did arrive a little earlier I got to walk for about an hour or so with a friend. If you've never walked the RiverWalk before, it's a long trail and you can quickly forget how long you've been walking and only realize how far you've gone when it's time to turn around and come back. That's exactly what happened with my friend and I.

After we finally did get back to the amphitheater we saw a local artist performing and a decent amount of people watching(half of which aren't captured in my picture as they were on the other side. In the parking lot, artists had come and set up their works and I found myself gravitating towards that. Brian Pyle, Thomas the Younger, Joy Mullen, and Amanda Tatum were only some of the artists that I enjoyed. Thomas's pieces with their interesting color choice and seemingly animalistic subject nature, were probably my favorites.

Brian Pyle
Thomas the Younger
Joy Mullen

See more photos on our Facebook.

Man2Man Boxing Event

2011-06-05T14:48:00.002-04:00

Last Sunday I went out to the Man2Man event at Fight Club University. The event was the first event benefiting the Man2Man program for "at-risk" youth. I'd never actually been to a sanctioned boxing match, so the eight that I saw that night proved to be a new expereince, and one that I wouldn't mind repeating.

It seemed like there was curse on the blue corner. As the night progressed, winner after winner emerged from the red corner. Throughout the eight sanctioned fights, two resulted in coaches "throwing in the towel". One of the boxers seemed to not even be able to stay on his feet as hit after hit landed him on his backside, laid out on the canvas. Ages varied but seemed to include mostly high school/college aged fighters but there were a few of the exceptionally young. One such boxer quickly gained the crowd's favor after preservering though his match and even giving a little energetic foot work. Sorry, he ended up losing his bout.

If you're interested, make sure to go out to the next Man2Man event on July 16th.

Also follow them on Twitter for updates.

More photos are on our Facebook.

My Birthday is Coming..

2011-06-03T21:54:00.002-04:00

Small Spiked Leather Bracelet from Robot and Brucling
My birthday is coming up next week on the 7th...
Both of these pieces are acceptable.
Tweet me for the mailing address.
THANKS

Uni Bracelet from Coco and Breezy

But really you guys should support the designers. Both of them have been worn by Beyonce before.

Frame of Mind Trunk Show

2011-06-02T12:10:00.007-04:00

A few of the frames from Monoqool at FOM. More photos by Mikelle Street

So last week, not too long after the Mast Store opening, I popped into one of my favorite little shops on Main Street: Frame of Mind eyewear Boutique. Mark Plessinger, the owner, is a really artistic guy with vision and the dedication to see his vision through. Sadly the latter isn't found in Columbia much.

Anyway, Mark hosted a midweek trunk show showing some of the latest wares from Monoqool, Derapage, Crowbae, Mainhattan and Eight Below Zero, all brands that are only sold in boutiques. There was a representative from Studio Optix there, Jack Erker, who gave me a quick run through on some of the brands and what makes them different, the most interesting of which happen to be the frames made from Mongolian Ram and African Bull horn. Erker was recently also in Huntington Beach and a few other places doing trunk shows.

Frames made out of ram and bull horn at FOM. More photos by Mikelle Street.

A few tidbits:

Monoqool- The frames made by Monoqool utilize a patented spiral instead of screws to connect the arms. Another bit I found interesting was the fact that some of the clear frames are actually like transitions lenses. Instead of the actual lenses changing with sunlight, the frames change.
Derapage- The Derapage frames also have a signature which is the layered technique. Formed from sheets of steel, the brand has it's roots in automobiles as the factor which manufactures them is a 3rd generation race car factory in Italy. Some of the newer frames are made from Italian acetate, which is one of the strongest plastics out.
Crowbae and Eight Below Zero- Both of these lines are composed of frames made from animal horn, african bull and mongolian ram respectively. Because they are made of actual animal horns, there are no pair of frames that are exactly the same. The frames are all being manufactured in France, and have been made from these animals for the last 4 years. Erker also said that the horns are from animals who've all died from "natural deaths."

Tonight, Frame of Mind will be also hosting another event, but this time for First Thursdays.

DR and Kelsey Granger's work will be on display!!

Make sure to attend!

Mast Store Opens on Columbia's Main Street

2011-06-02T00:16:00.005-04:00

Mast Store opens on Main Street. More photos by Mikelle Street

So last week I went to the ribbon cutting of Mast General Store's 8th location which was at 1601 Main Street. The store is being touted as retail's return to Main Street as well as a revitalization of a troubled corridor. The effort joins many artistic endeavors already in motion like First Thursdays and makes sure to reinforce the historic feeling that downtown Columbia is known. The building itself was restored to it's 1927 condition.

Mast Store carries "lifestyle clothing" as well as gifts and candy. More photos by Mikelle Street

While I could go all political right now(which I actually did and deleted) about how Main Street is supposed to be being revitalized and some of the things I see that need to be redone I won't. What I will do though, is say that Mast Store had over 500 different types of "old fashioned candies" to be bought by the pound. Of course some of the people just grabbed a few of the pieces of candy that were single wrapped for "testing"(which was totally allowed) but I refrained. The two story building was relaxed and comfortable with gifts, colorful t-shirts and outdoor/comfortable gear accompanying the candy. Patagona, Northface, TVA, and Choco are among the brands stocked.

This Thursday(today) Mast Store will be participating in it's first First Thursday as a part of it's Grand Opening Celebration. There will be Drawings, informative seminars and old-fashioned fun from today through Sunday(June 5th).

Hope to see you there as I'll be dropping by.

"Hairspray" at Workshop Theatre

2011-05-28T12:33:00.005-04:00

photo of the outside of Workshop Theatre by Mikelle Street
"Momma-I'm a Big Girl Now" by the original cast of Hairspray

Last night I went to the Workshop Theatre to see their sold out production of "Hairspray: The Broadway Musical" sponsored by the AIDS Benefit Foundaiton of South Caorlina. Having never actually been to Workshop Theatre, I found myself attracted to the small intimate cortyard and even alleyway surrounding the entrance. Since I'm not a fancy cool photographer, I had no clue how to shoot the space(alot of trees=alot of shade and I hate the flash) but I did try.

Anyway the production was a powerful one. It was set up as a sort of immersive performance with actors milling through the aisles and coming throgh back entrances to the theatre before making their way to the front stage. For those familiar with the recent movie Hairspray, while similar, the plot wasn't exactly the same. One of my favorite numbers of the movie, "New Girl in Town," wasn't found in the production but instead there was " Mama-I'm a Big Girl Now" performed by the three mother/daughter duos. For those unfamiliar with the movie, the plot is based on Tracy Turnblad who plays played by a talented Jennifer Morse, who fights for the rights of her African-American cohorts while herself being ridiculed for her weight.

The strongest numbers seemed to come from Miss Motormouth Maybelle herself, played by Michelle Nicole Rivera. Rivera's voice held a strength, vigor, and maturity that seemed to outshine the rest of the cast. "I Know Where I've Been" was undoubtedly the strongest number, led by Rivera with the accompaniment of the ensemble. The resulting applause was resounding.

Hairspray will run at Workshop Theatre until June 4th with showtimes at 8.

The production will pick back up on June 8th and run till the 11th.

Call and reserve tickets because they sel out quickly.

"The Color Issue" of Iconography Magazine

2011-05-24T21:11:00.003-04:00

So I've been doing a bit more contributing elsewhere and one of the publications I contribute to is Iconography Magazine. For their 9th issue, they chose the theme of "The Color Issue" and in light of the movie "For Colored Girls" I penned an article about four male models entitled "Four Colored Boys." Basically it consists of short clips on four important male models: David Agbodji at Re:Quest, Corey Baptiste at VNY, Jonathan Marquez at Click, and Zakaria Khiare of Ford Models.

Musing Part 1

2011-05-21T21:23:00.004-04:00

vintage ad for Ted Lapinus(1971)
"I Don't Like the Vibe in the VIP" by ElectroVamp

It's weird. I've pushed so hard to not just be a blogger. I've always pushed to write more to write coherent reviews of the shows, to actually write above all. And to be honest I think I have, I think that my writing has certainly improved.

The thing is.. in this last few months it seems that opportunities have been continually presenting themselves to me in one way or another. I haven't really been talking to you guys about them(yet) but there are a lot of things in the works and even already happening that are calling for more of my time in addition to the events that I attend for the blog which oddly leaves not much time to actually cover things.

Of course there are some other reasons that I haven't really mentioned but these are some major ones. And then seeing as I really do want a career in this industry and I'm not sure if my blog is the type that can give me that I continually have to decide which events I should cover and which ones to work.

Bleh that's enough of that type of musing. The plan is to stay the course but make tweaks as I see fit(as I've always done). This summer could be a big deal for me and the blog so I can't wait for it!

"The Septemberists" by Anthony Goicelea

2011-05-20T12:49:00.004-04:00

There's a special place in my heart for Thom Browne menswear. The Thom Browne suit is so iconic in it's own way, so individualistic, that when you see it it's unmistakable. Well the Thom Browne runway sample suit that is(I've been told that in stores suits are fitted to order which means they lose a tad of the signature aesthetic).
It was Alexander Fury that tipped me off to the film entitled "The Septemberists". Fury is apart of one of the groups fueling fashion's pursuit into film and so the stamp of approval by him carried a lot of weight. After that small trailer I immediately had to go to find the rest of the film
To say that I completely comprehend everything in the film would make me a farce. The thing is that most of the best Fashion Films have at least a touch of something that seems to be a bit incomprehensible. It's because of how simple the film seems I believe. This simplicity causes a search for a deeper meaning and it's this deeper meaning is what normally alludes me. It's at this point that I'm reduced to watching the film and appreciating it for the beauty that it is.

"Run the World" video by Beyonce

2011-05-19T00:40:00.012-04:00

Haters gone hate, it's what they do. Beyonce is back though and that's all that matters.

This new era of Beyonce is clearly about the fashion as is evident in the album cover as well as this video. Ty Hunter certainly has his work cut out for him and has set the bar high for himself. In the Run The World video Beyonce appears in two Emilio Pucci's, a Cavalli, and an Alexander McQueen, among other stunning looks. I can't wait for the second single!

Roberto Cavalli

Alexander McQueen by Alexander McQueen
Fall 2010

Givenchy Couture by Riccardo Tisci
Spring 2011

Brian Lichtenberg
(shrug)

Guissepi Zanotti
(chest chasity belt)

Norma Kamali
(shorts)

custom made by Ty Hunter
(fringe heels)

Jean Paul Gaultier Couture
Spring 2011

Jean Paul Gaultier
Fall 2011

LaRuicci
(nails and earrings)

Gareth Pugh
for Pitti Immagine

Emilio Pucci by Peter Dundas
Spring 2010

Sergio Rossi(boots)

Emilio Pucci by Peter Dundas
Fall 2011

The Wrong Goodbye

2011-05-17T08:54:00.001-04:00

WATCH GOSSIP GIRL SEASON 4 EPISODE 22: "THE WRONG GOODBYE" (SEASON FINALE) HERE!

It's the reunion of a life time!

xoxo

Chanel Resort 2012 and Tale of a Fairy

2011-05-11T20:36:00.001-04:00

label Chanel
season Resort/Cruise 2012

I'm not sure if it has always been this way but for the past few seasons that I remember it has been Karl Lagerfeld who begins the Resort/Cruise show season with a lavish Chanel show and the 2012 show season is no different. The showing in Antibes, France at the Hotel du Cap on the French Riviera, like last year was more of an event with fleets of limos, and afterparties to be had. But as I sadly was not there I can't quite go on about the activities but can instead talk about the collection and accompanying film.

The Chanel Resort 2012 collection was spotty. Not spotty in the way that Marc Jacobs presented his Fall 2012 collection but spotty in the way that a fledgling designer might present a collection with 6 or 7 great looks muddled with 15 other not so great ones. While maybe harsh it seems as time goes by that this is what I've come to expect from the Kaiser, a few great pieces, but mostly looks that are a bit... well stale.

The collection had a 20's theme(well 20's/30's) that was echoed in the venue. My favorite part of the collection would probably have to be the black and white swimwear along with a few of the maxi dresses. Even though it is the aesthetic of the house there just seemed to be something a tad too prim and proper about the collection. The few menswear looks... well, like I said before, spotty. It was only after I saw some of the lookbook images that I began to like some of the pieces more.

In addition to the new collection Uncle Lagerfeld blessed us with the grace of a new film. My opinion on it is fairly succinct. When I first saw the preview I was excited. Having not been a fan of Lagerfeld's past films I thought that maybe the only problem was that he hadn't had enough time to completely flesh out the films and with Tale of a Fairy he would rectify the problem. Well at the end of the film, my brain was a muddied mess and I could only appreciate the film for it's beauty. At some parts the fact that a fashion hand had guided the movie was almost palpable(see any shot with Baptiste or the shots on the beach). My only suggestion is for the kaiser is to go ahead and do a full film. It seems that only in a full length film will he be able to completely get his point across.

"Run The World" teaser by Beyonce

2011-05-10T21:22:00.002-04:00

Beyonce in the teaser for the video for her new single Run The World

Beyonce Knowles is back my dears and with the fashion to match!
Round IV: The Return of the Queen
"The Bey is about to Sting"

The Gareth Pugh
Fall 2011

The Givenchy
Couture Spring 2011

The Roberto Cavalli
Pre-Fall 2011

The Emilio Pucci

Shattered Bass

2011-05-10T13:38:00.002-04:00

WATCH GOSSIP GIRL SEASON 4 EPISODE 21: "SHATTERED BASS"

Just when I was getting bored with the show, a little shaking things up never hurt anyone...
or did it
xoxo

SPRING: Fernando Frisoni

2011-05-06T15:29:00.002-04:00

label Fernando Frisoni
season Spring/Summer 2011/2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

In most of the collections that I've seen from Australia Fashion Week, there's been this sort of soft or light quality. I don't really find this in the Fernando Frisoni collection. A label that isn't new to me, Fernando Frisoni presents a collection with a color palette of whites, blacks, and a metallic gold. Only offering up a hand full of menswear looks this season, Frisoni seems to create long lasting pieces including a pair of shorts ere, an interesting dress there, in colors that will stand the test of time. While there was something about the pockets that bothered me, the collection as a whole, the man skirt to be more specific, pleased me and made clear that Frisoni was no newbie.

Prior to design, Frisoni was a writer and a stylist. He launched his label in 2008 and added womenswear two years later. His aesthetic for classicism has been present throughout his time as a designer.

source | for tomorrow

SPRING: Gary Bigeni 11/12

2011-05-06T13:01:00.001-04:00

label Gary Bigeni
season Spring/Summer 2011/2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

It seemed that a bit of relative softness wasn't only reserved for the Lo Sordo show. Gary Bigeni lends me to believe that more than one designer in Australia has caught on to this sort of neo-minimalism trend that has been popping up lately and has decided to run with it. Draped, belted, and powerful with the color, the collection is entirely utilitarian varying from striped tunic dresses to a leather skirt. While things did seem a little fuzzy for a moment with the layering(like the leather jacket, and a few other looks although I did love the leather pieces) Bigeni's show was a strong one and his voice on Australian fashion is most certainly one to be heard. Bigeni's sponsor, Spanx must have been pretty pleased as though draped and beautiful the pieces, the wearer would need a pretty fine body for the pieces to hang and look exactly as they were meant to.

source | for tomorrow

SPRING: Michael Lo Sordo 11/12

2011-05-06T11:01:00.000-04:00

label Michael Lo Sordo
season Spring 2011/Summer 2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

Though I did happen to start off my RAFW coverage with a bad review, it most certainly isn't all bad. Michael Lo Sordo makes a strong, if soft, statement for the week with a collection of looks that while simplistic, are never bland. Utilizing geometric shapes, a keen minimalist eye, a dash of print, and more than his share of chiffon, Sordo creates a collection that leaves more of an impression than anything else, a lasting impression on the viewer wherein the spirit of the collection is found. To be completely honest though, it may have been those ballerina esque knife pleats that enticed me coupled with the long-sleeved, night gown like dress that seemed to ripple off the model. I'm a sucker for femininity, grace, and discipline, and these are the qualities that will be required to pull of any number of these looks.

SPRING: Karla Spetic 2011/12

2011-05-06T09:17:00.000-04:00

Fashion weeks other than the Formidable Four do exist. You may be happy to know this but fashion shows continue throughout the year, various designers showing their wares for buyers, editors, and even just crowds of the masses who are eager enough to purchase a ticket. Rosemount Australian Fashion Week just happens to be one of those weeks.

With a show schedule that's a bit confusing, RAFW began yesterday. Unlike in other weeks where designers are showing Fall/Winter 2011, designers in Australia are showing Spring 2011/2012. This is the 16th year of the fashion week and they still have yet to shake the negative connotation that has been attached to them. I've been told, even from Australians, that designers that show are mainly known for blatantly ripping off the designs and aesthetics of mainstream houses.

I normally don't start a post off so negative but while looking over the Karla Spetic collection, I couldn't help but narrow my eyebrows. I saw what was clearly was a regurgitation of the last few seasons in Milan, complete with Versace and Gucci. The cut outs, the coloring, the silhouettes, all did nothing but evoke a Miranda Priestly moment within me, "I've seen all of this before." The draped dresses, with their midriff flounce did not remind me of anything else though and I enjoyed them. It showed that there was something there but I would only hope that Spetic would delve more into her own design aesthetic and shun the outside influences less they remain overtones in her collections and not the undertones they should be.

source | for tomorrow

Color for the Boys

2011-05-05T09:09:00.000-04:00

Thomas Gibbons shot by Chris Petranis in GQ Russia

It's always interesting to see the looks from the shows and then watch at how the various voices screaming for attention in the industry are interpreted to the masses by the various fashion editors and stylists. I could have told you when the shows were going on that for menswear it was going to be a colorful season. With heavy hitters like Prada, Raf Simons, and Calvin Klein all showing some type of color blocked collections for men, it was sort of a given. Sure enough, publications around the world turned out more than their share of color blocked stories featuring those candy colored striped sweaters that Miuccia sent down the runway and the bright trousers from Jil Sander. Here's just a handful of images from those editorials as color makes it's rounds on menswear.

Nicolas Ripoll shot by Takay in Velvet Magazine

Bastiaan Ninaber shot by Matteo Montanari in GQ Germany

Linus Gustin shot by Jason Kim for Essential Homme

Hadrien & Toon shot by Steve Beckouet for Blast Magazine

River Viiperi and Sebastian Sauve shot by Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca for GQ Style Russia

source | thefashionisto, thefashionspot, thefashionspot, thefashionisto, bananas, thefashionisto

The Princess and the Frog

2011-05-03T18:45:00.001-04:00

WTATCH GOSSIP GIRL SEASON 4 EPISODE 20 "THE PRINCESS AND THE FROG"

Charlie versus Vanessa? Do tell!

xoxo

Met Gala 2011

2011-05-03T00:49:00.009-04:00

Jay-Z in Tom Ford and Beyonce in Emilio Pucci Fall 2011 at the 2011 Met Gala

On Monday, heavy hitters from industries around the world attended the 2011 Met Gala in New York hosted by Vogue Magazine. With the official name of Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute Gala Benefit, the event, hosted by Anna Wintour, has grown from it's simple small $50 a head beginnings, to one of the largest arts fundraisers in the world. This year, as every in every year, there was a theme. In light of Lee McQueen's tragic death, the theme was a retrospective entitled Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, built around McQueen's creations for his namesake label, Alexander McQueen.

At an event of this magnitude with these names in fashion involved, the red carpet is sure to be filled with custom/off the runway looks. Most certainly one of the most premiere red carpet events, right up under the Oscars, stylists and celebrities pull out top designs to display on the carpet and this year was no different.

celebs: Beyonce, Daphne Guinness, Diane Kruger, Florence Welch
dresses: Pucci, Alexander McQueen, Jason Wu, YSL

A few of my favorites of the night included of course Beyonce's Emilio Pucci look. The Fall 2011 gown was so tight that the international performer had a hard time going up the stairs and because of this decided to not stop for photos. It was this that caused the paparazzi to boo her and husband, Jay-Z as they ascended into the exhibit. Another big name that I enjoyed was Daphne Guinness. Always known for her strong wardrobe choices, Daphne wore a Spring 2011 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton gown that she donned in the window at Barney's. Florence Welch was another favorite dressed in a custom Yves Saint Laurent gown. Florence has become a regular on best/worst dressed lists this past red carpet season with her sartorial choices. Diane Kruger chose a Jason Wu Fall 2011 gown for the carpet with a high slit showing a good amount of leg. The dress came off just as well off the runway as it did on it.

celebs: Gwyneth Paltrow, Brooklyn Decker, Claire Daines, Sarah Jessica Parker
dresses: Stella McCartney, Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Alexander McQueen

Of course as in ever red carpet showing there were trends. It seems that the penchant for sleeves, simplicity, and shine carried on even to the Met Gala. Gwyneth Paltrow in Stella McCartney and Brooklyn Decker in Michael Kors both chose gowns that look similar to some of the Calvin Klein gowns we saw during red carpet season. The dresses touched on a few trends: simplicity, splits, and sleeves. While Claire Daines went sleeveless with her Calvin Klein, there was still a simplicity and bit of shine to the piece that held it within the parameters of the trend of the night. Francisco Costa is undoubtedly proud of his work and the way it has come to define different celebrities on the red carpet. Sarah Jessica Parker appeared in a flesh toned Alexander McQueen gown, that while wasn't stunning, was a solid choice.

Runaway Runway 2011 After Party

2011-05-02T14:10:00.002-04:00

So after Runaway Runway everyone was invited to go across the street to the after party for wine and hors d'oeuvres. Seeing as my work was done at the event, I did get to scoot right on over and it was a really nice time. I can't for the life of me remember the name of the venue but I've passed it countless times. It was a great night to be outside and with intimate lighting, and a jazz band, the atmosphere complimented that of the main of event nicely.

Since I did happen to still have my friend's camera i shot around a bit, finding that I have an attraction to shots with no faces. In the future I may try to leave the photography to photographers but a fun time was had by all.

See more images from the After Party.

Runaway Runway 2011

2011-05-01T00:06:00.008-04:00

The hat from the Mad Hatter look designed by Miles Purvis at Runaway Runway 2011

This past Friday the Columbia Design League put on Runaway Runway 2011 in the Township Auditorium here in Columbia, South Carolina. The event is the biggest fashion event in Columbia and has only recently moved to the Township after outgrowing 701 Whaley Street.

Punctuated by acts that were just as varied as the creations that served as the centerpiece of the production, the night was most certainly a barrel of entertainment. Even from my volunteer position working the Fashion Club section of the seating arrangement, it was clear that some of the acts, like the one involving local drag queens Patti O'Furniture, Lady La Poodle, Paris Lefaris, and Carla Cox, hit their marks. Even the emcees, Betsy Newman, who wore a dress designed by 2010 Runaway Runway winner Bohulmina Augustinova(commissioned by the 2011 presenting sponsor Palmetto Clean Energy), and Larry Hembree kept spirits high with a few jokes of their own.

The Mad Hatter dress from Runaway Runway 2011

While the competition was stiff, with designers like Molly McNutt of the famed 2010 "Gaga-Monster" Dress returning, there were definite standouts. The panel of judges which included the 2010-2011 President of Fashion Board USC, Marquis Bias, as well as partner at grass roots event organizing firm Flock and Rally, Tracie Broom, and Frame of Mind owner, Mark Plessinger, narrowed the decision down to three looks for the audience to vote on by text the night of the show.

Being the wholehearted supporter I am, I threw my support behind the "Mad Hatter" look designed by Miles Purvis, which came complete with a hat, cane, dress, as well as white wig with neon lights strewn throughout. A few texts, tweets, and short conversations later, I felt I'd done my duty in garnering as much support as I could. Though the Alexander McQueen-esque look was just as beautiful(though it wasn't a finalist), as was the gorgeous Diet Pepsi evening gown designed by Kyle Taylor Kirchman, there was something about the dedication of the "Mad Hatter" look, which featured the model in gold glistening body paint, that spoke to me. So of course I was ecstatic when the look won.

After the event was the afterparty(where these images were actually taken because I had to work during the show) which was right across the road. It was a very nice, understated affair in comparison to the event and so people really got a chance to see some of the garments up close. The entire experience was amazing and I'm sure the Design League is proud of their first run at the Township. The new location gives the event a chance to grow to proportions it would not have been able to reach in 701 and I can't wait for the future.

See more images from the show.

Gossip Girl: Petty in Pink

2011-04-26T10:58:00.003-04:00

Watch Gossip Girl Season 4 Episode 19: Petty in Pink here!

What is there to say?
xoxo

F/Homme Magazine Issue 1

2011-04-26T09:40:00.002-04:00

So the debut issue of the menswear version of FIASCO Magazine has finally arrived. Inside you'll find features on Vivienne Westwood, the Haus of Mugler, Rad Hourani and even the Spring 2011 Collections(by yours truly). A few photographers and included are cover models Mark Cox and William Eustace as well as Nicolas Ripoll, Joe Lally, and Justin Wu. Happy Reading.

Exclusive Brad Boultinghouse Interview

2011-04-25T08:02:00.004-04:00

Brad Boultinghouse talking to attendees after the show
photo by Keri Goff

Following his show on Thursday I sat down with Brad Boultinghouse to talk a little bit of shop in regards to the collection and the inspiration behind it. I have to say thanks to Keri Goff who like a trooper switched from photographer to videographer at the drop of a dime. I hope you guys enjoy the short interview as well as the images below the clip.

Brad directing models backstage
detail shot of second look
spiked wedges from aholic by Brad Boultinghouse

Sarah Hines, Me, and Hallie Lipsmeyer
Hallie Lipsmeyer, Brad Boultinghouse, Christian Barker, Sarah Hines, Me

aholic by Brad Boultinghouse 2011

2011-04-24T09:04:00.011-04:00

Brad Boultinghouse giving his preshow speech
photo by Keri Goff

The model rounded the curve, the mosaic print rippling off of her, the high hem in front of her high enough to reveal the bottom of the bathing suit she wore beneath. It was the same look that was on the promotional image that got me interested in the show, and the same look I'd just seen backstage but as always, there's something a bit different when you can see the fluidity of a garment as the model stomps down the runway, the dim, intimate lighting only enhancing the overall appeal.

Brad Boultinghouse showed his entire 2011 collection for his label aholic this past Thursday on the Columbia Metropolitan Convention Center patio. Attendees came out for a night of champagne, hors d'oeuvres, music, and fashion with proceeds benefiting One Good Deed charity, based in Kansas City, Missouri.

"The goal is to raise enough money for diapers for one hospital, for one month and update a laundry facility," Boultinghouse exlained to me a few days before the show. He went on to detail how the $3,000 would buy diapers that would provide effective sanitation and prevent diseases for children, as well as bring the outdated laundry facilities into the 20th century in order to sustain these new diapers as there's a landfill problem in Africa, where these funds would be headed.

see more runway images by Keri Goff

The collection showed was one that was still very much within the parameters that Boultinghouse set for himself. One look in particular, a grey body conscious cocktail dress with architectural ruffle flourishes, was a dead ringer for a black dress he showed last season. The collection surely wasn't the same though with a great deal of fragility and even innocence in pieces.

While Boultinghouse did say he's nervous about how his pieces will be received, he himself knows that they aren't for everyone. That black shift dress with the white block of fabric layered over it, and those herringbone shorts, along with the rest of the collection are one of a kind pieces going to customers who don't have to worry about going out and finding another girl with the same look. These of course are customers who have no qualms in matching the softness of a simple white cotton dress with the rough appeal of the spiked wedges that comprise one third of Boultinghouse's entry into accessories.

see more backstage photos by Keri Goff

The collection as a whole was a consistent one, a solid one and even above average for Columbia fashion. Though possibly a tad confusing as all seasons are shown in one presentation Brad Boultinghouse ensures cohesion by telling one story, one that he says is his own, and seems to include a bit of retro sensability. I only await future collections from him.

(Sarah Hines, Christian Barker, Melissa Brown, Hallie Lipsmeyer, Me)

The Tale of Brock

2011-04-23T13:08:00.005-04:00

His name is Brock

A bit of toughness never hurt anyone.

While at Charleston Fashion Week surrounded by the presences of Ayoka Lucas, Fern Mallis, Anne Slowey, Derek Blasberg, and Mychael Knight an urge to splurge over took me. With the recent loss of Orion(someone stole him from my dorm, I was not negligent), the goodies at the Style Lounge were too tempting(I actually also purchased a pair of shades which are used for viewing fashion shows when sitting front row).

I happened to be wearing The Serpent(far left) as well as Ophelia(far right) and Brock seemed to fit directly in with them. With a bespeckled surface that actually only really shows up in images, he adds just the right amount of weight to a look and has already made multiple appearances out at events.

Everyone welcome Brock to the family.

purchased from Hallelu

Grit and Glamour 2011

2011-04-18T14:09:00.007-04:00

On this past Saturday I attended the Grit and Glamour Gala at the Columbia Museum of Art. It really was an amazing event with performances by the Unbound Dance Company, as well as The Swingin' Richards, and MaryLiz the Princess. The museum was divided into different sections like the Piano Bar, the Hemp Bar, as well as the Coffee Bar. The largest space was in the expansion area of the museum where Izms of Art had painted the walls in graffiti. There were markers for us to add to the work but I, as always, couldn't bring myself to do it.

All and all it was a great event benefiting a great cause. There was enough food to probably feed twice as much as we actually ate and there would be no way for me to even guess how many attendees there were. Of course there were a few familiar faces like the women of VanJean and Just The Thing, as well as The Shop Tart(who you can thank for the picture of me), and Otis Taylor of The State. Cori Hanky of Garnet and Black accompanied me and so when we get them back most of the images will be from her.

Cori Hanki and I via The Shop Tart

USC Fashion Week Show

2011-04-18T13:46:00.013-04:00

Models backstage in Laura McCall's pieces
photo by Keri Goff/The Daily Gamecock

Hey guys I'm so sorry it took me soo long to get this video and coverage up but things have been hectic. Last Thursday was USC Fashion Week's show. Fashion Board put on the show which is held annually in 701 Whaley. There were 8 retailers from Columbia including Britton's, LaRoque, Coplon's, Just The Thing, M Boutique, VanJean, DeLibel, and Bohemian. The featured student designer was Laura McCall(see the Tumblr for our review).

There were alot of people from the local fashion set like Jai Marshall of The Fat and Skinny on Fashion, Anne Postic of The Shop Tart, Cori Hanky of Garnet and Black, Dwaun Sellers of The Shopping Savage, Tracie Broom of Flock and Rally, Keisha Moore of UK Models, Alana Britt of Alana B Couture, as well as those involved in Fashion Board like Marquis Bias and Ashleigh Armstrong.

LaRoque

Photos by Keri Goff/The Daily Gamecock

Other Retailers

Photos by Clarence Jackson

Marquis Bias Interview and USC Fashion Week

2011-04-14T23:00:00.010-04:00

Marquis Bias speaking with ABC at the USC Fashion Week Show
photo by Keri Goff for The Daily Gamecock"Put both of them on," Marquis Bias instructed handing the model two gold braided belts. She wrapped them around her waist and turned around for Marquis's approval. He nodded, scanning the clothes carefully placed on the walls of DeLibel Boutique, "There's alot of pieces here to choose from but it has to go with my story," he said.

The story was told last night at 701 Whaley as the Fashion Board at the University of South Carolina put on their annual fashion show as apart of their fashion week. This year featured one student designer named Laura McCall, as well as 8 local boutiques, and was Marquis's 3rd year putting on the event, his second as President. "I guess in a way it is [my grand finale]." He says looking down at his armful of bracelets, and idly playing with one of his most prized, an Alexis Bittar given to him by roommate and Fashion Board Vice President of Social Outreach, Ashleigh Armstrong.

A few days before the show, which boasted an audience of about 350 people, I sat in on one of Marquis's many fittings and chatted with him about his life in fashion as well as the industry in general.

"I wanna be [Andre Leon Talley] when I grow up, I really want to be him when I grow up, he has so much power in the industry," Marquis confided in me. Though he named names like June Ambrose, Nicola Formichetti, and Rachel Zoe when asked about inspirational people in the industry it was Talley who stuck out to him. Not only does the striking similarity in life stories impact Marquis(both were raised in small traditional southern towns where they were introduced to glamour, beauty, and fashion by their grandmothers) but also Talley's way of doing things. He explained how Talley has a penchant for taking new industry personel under his wing. "Especially for the black girls in the industry: when they come in the industry with a bad hair weave he takes them under his wing, introduces them to Valentino , and goes and get their hair done."

Having worked for Gregory Ellenburg of Gregory Ellenburg, Anne Postic of The Shop Tart, and Annabelle LaRoque of LaRoque, Marquis knows a bit about what it takes to be a success in the industry. "One of the key things to being a successful stylist is relationships," says Marquis rotating Rocko, a green jeweled lizard ring, on his finger. Relationships with designers, models, photographers, and even other stylists all can benefit a working stylist. One of Marquis's most cherished relationships is the one he has with industry stylist, Becca Alexis, who is a huge mentor of his."I know she's like crazy busy and yet she always makes time to respond to my messages and stuff." said Marquis of the stylist who's worked with Janet Jackson, Kanye West, and Trey Songz.

Marquis mainly stood alone as he hosted the fashion show last night. In a pair of sequined trousers and with an armful of new pieces, he thanked retailers and designers for allowing a "little boy from Timmonsville" to use their resources for year after year to put on what has become one of the largest annual fashion shows in Columbia. The show is Marquis's last as apart of Fashion Board but we're sure to see his Louis Vuitton monogrammed hold-all flitting around Columbia for at least a little longer as he continues on in his pursuit to "beautify the world one sequin at a time."

Summer's Day: Editorial Exclusive

2011-04-11T07:38:00.009-04:00

photo Keri Goff
styling Mikelle Street
model Lauren Malstrom

"It has to fit within my story," Marquis Bias, the president of Fashion Board, says idly playing with his Alexis Bittar bracelet while scanning the options at DeLibel Boutique. A model stands off to the side in a white knit dress, waiting as he selects her second look. She is the second to the last model of Marquis's day of fittings.

Today marks the beginning of USC Fashion Week. Put on by the Fashion Board at the University of South Carolina, USC Fashion Week is about education, social outreach, as well as fashion. The week will culminate in a fashion show featuring local retailers like DeLibel Boutique, Coplon's, LaRoque, VanJean, Just The Thing, M Boutique, Britton's, and Bohemian, as well as student designer, Laura McCall.

Today, the fashion week kick off will be held on the Russell House Patio from 11-2. There will be music as well as merchandise like t-shirts, koozies, sunglasses, and pens, available to be purchased. Marquis himself as well as other fashion board members will be there.

On Wednesday, the board will put on a Bake Sale to be held on Greene Street and in front of the BA Building that will benefit SisterCare. That night at 7PM in the Public Health Building, Jess James of Style Swap will be speaking.

Thursday is the finale with a 72 look fashion show held at 701 Whaley at 7:00PM.

The night of the show will be Marquis's last night as two year President of Fashion Board. "I guess in a way it is [my grand finale]" He says staring off. A local stylist, Marquis continually keeps projects, big and small in the works and will now be able to focus more on those since he shall be turning the reigns over to current Fashion Board secretary, Melissa Karl. "I'm very excited," Marquis says in regards to the new E-Board. "I think that we have a great new team, and it puts my mind at ease knowing that I'm leaving and the organization will be in good hands." In reference to Melissa specifically Marquis states, "I'm particularly pleased with my successor because I know that she shares the same vision I have and have had for the organization."

The shoot presented in this post was a shot conceptualized by me in order to promote local fashion businesses during the week of USC Fashion Week. Since the week is the closest that Columbia has to a Columbia Fashion Week, I thought that it would be the best time to do a Spring shoot highlighting the trends that we saw internationally by utilizing the garments we see locally.

I must of course say thanks to all involved. Keri Goff took the images and Lauren Malstrom modeled for us. Both of them attend USC. While the only local designer featured was Annabelle LaRoque, who is most certainly a favorite of mine, all the pieces do come from local boutiques. Thanks go out to VanJean, Revente, Sid&Nancy, Just The Thing, Handpicked, and Frame of Mind, as they all allowed me to pull pieces for the shoot.

Shirley Yu Interview

2011-04-08T09:00:00.003-04:00

Finding new people in the fashion industry at one point became a past time of mine. I'd search for new photographers, designers, and model and then catalogue their information some where before continuing to search. One photographer I found during that time was 16 year old Shirley Yu. A young photographer, Shirley is already making a bit of traction in the industry shooting mostly tests for modeling agencies like Red, Request, Elite, and Ford. She admits that her proudest moments yet have been when her work was featured on popular fashion blogs Fashion Gone Rogue and The Ones 2 Watch. Right before releasing the debut issue of her new magazine Youth and Freedom, Yu agreed to answer a few questions for me.

MoaGB: How did you get into photography and why at such a young age?
Shirley Yu: I practiced photojournalism after buying a used DSLR in 7th grade. I then began to love taking pictures. It wasn't until I looked at Richard Avedon's work that I became interested in fashion photography. Why so young? It's one of those fun things that its like if you could do it at sixteen, why not? Most of the models I've shot were teenagers anyway!

MoaGB: Do you feel as if the industry has been receptive of you and actually values your work?
Shirley: Just being able to go this far in fashion photography must be some sort of sign that they do.

MoaGB: There are increasingly amount of young people getting into the industry at a very young age, namely those like yourself, Tavi Gevinson, and your partner in crime David Urbanke, do you attribute this to anything specifically? Do you think the rise in technology has contributed to this?
Shirley: Tavi is awesome, just sayin. But I definately think the rise in technology 100% controls the influence of all the young people coming into the industry (unless they come from really rich and powerful families). I don't think I've obtained as much of an internet following as a lot of other young fashion people, but I do tweet a lot and write on my blog sometimes (that no one reads) haha

MoaGB: Speaking of Urbanke, the two of you have recently released your own magazine so what prompted to start your own publication of all things?
Shirley: It was started to showcase some up-and-coming talent and also to be able to work with established fashion photographers. David started it as the Editor in Chief, but I hopped along as assistant editor because I'm a huge magazine junkie and I completely die for fashion editorials.

MoaGB: After you had the concept of the publication how did you put the rubber to the road and actually go about making YF a reality?
Shirley: David first made the website and we began talking to other fashion photographers, coming up with plans, getting submissions, making a Twitter, calling in favors from all our fashion friends, and then insanely promoting the magazine. After everything, David put together the layout of the magazine. That's how the first issue was created.

MoaGB:When going into a shoot do you come into it with an idea of what you want to do? I've been told that some photographers are very regimented and have each shot planned out whereas others really just allow it all to happen on the set; do you fall into one of these categories, or do you do things differently?
Shirley: I'm pretty spontaneous about shooting. I have a general idea of what I want, and I get inspired mostly by the model and the location. I definately don't plan every shot, I cant even imagine that!

MoaGB: How important a part does post production play into your shoots?
Shirley: I hate retouching so I'll do as little of it as I can get away with. I try not to overly screw with colors and lighting in post because I just want the photo to look like what I saw with my eyes that day.

MoaGB: Are there any ongoing influences that you have, whether specific people or just concepts?
Shirley: Well I've been shooting mostly male models for the past four months with about two female models every month. Shooting has been a huge binge of boys...but I'm currently trying to balance it out more!

MoaGB: I've been told by many others that relationships often play a more important role than talent when it comes to be successful monetarily in this industry, do you feel this way? Do you have any personal experience with the issue?
Shirley: In my opinion it's only 51% about your work (maybe less?) and the rest is just who you know or how important your friends are. You definately can't work in fashion without the connections to back it up. Monetarily, I wouldn't know anything about haha but ive discovered this year that knowing important people who can get you into fashion week shows/presentations is always fun ;)

MoaGB: What advice would you give someone looking to get into photography?
Shirley Yu: Just develop good taste by developing a list of favorite fashion photographers (then constantly follow their work). Don't be tacky!

A Day at the Races with Marquis Bias

2011-04-02T22:35:00.008-04:00

Early this Saturday morning, just a short while after the sun rose, I found myself rising from my bed to prepare for my trip to Camden for my first experience with the tried and true southern experience know as Carolina Cup.

I had never heard of Carolina Cup prior to my years at the University of South Carolina, but once I began my time there I quickly ascertained that it was a pretty big deal among the good ole’ boys and southern belles.

For those of you who don’t know, Carolina Cup is a horse race, and Camden, South Carolina, where the event is held, is a world-renowned epicenter of thoroughbred horse training.

Every year, followers of this tradition adorn themselves in every bit of pastel patchwork fabric, seersucker, or quirky spring apropos print that they can find and make their way to Springdale Race Course.

Of course, any true southerner would know that you don’t go anywhere half steppin’, and a trip to Springdale is no different. Although at most sporting events an old tee shirt and sneakers will do, you would look pretty foolish rolling up at Cup dressed that way.

For gentlemen, a shirt and tie is considered most appropriate, paired with a complimenting trouser or pair of shorts. Most men will choose to trust such well-known brands as Southern Tide or Vinyard Vines with their wardrobe. (Although I found the event to be pleasant, it was a bit too town and country for me. Being the fashion rebel that I am, I chose to shroud myself in black, instead of bright poppy spring color. Instead of Southern Tide, I went to the houses of H&M, Zara, and Topman for my ensemble.)

For ladies, the answer is simple: if your dress wasn’t custom made by Annabelle LaRoque, then it better have been acquired from Lilly Pulitzer. Of course you can’t forget the key element—the hat.

I found this little moment at a vendor from Virginia who set up shop to sell her wares to perhaps some young lady who came unprepared.

As I wandered about, I discovered booths by Sperry and Lilly Pulitzer herself. The Lilly table was even giving away freebies, including custom Lilly Pulitzer edition animal crackers! Of course I had to indulge!

As tasty as they were, the cookies were not enough so after I returned to Columbia, I stopped by The Gourmet Shop for a smoked salmon bagel. Delicious!

MARQUIS BIAS
Marquis Bias is an expert in fashion and style based in Columbia, South Carolina. He is well known throughout South Carolina for his work as a fashion stylist and creative director as well as his position as the President of the Fashion Board at the University of South Carolina.

Follow Marquis on Twitter and lookout for USC's Fashion Week.
USC Fashion Board is on Twitter as well.

FILM: Anna Wintour on Bloomberg

2011-04-02T18:31:00.003-04:00

There's not much to say, it's Anna Wintour we're talking about. Chronicling her journey up until now, this feature sheds light into places I've never known about. For example, I wasn't aware that her journey to the top of the masthead was preceded by so many other positions. I had only heard about Home and Garden in addition to Vogue UK. To be honest the video is meant as inspiration. Now it's time to set your sights and climb.

FILM: Alexander McQueen

2011-04-01T09:04:00.000-04:00

I've always doubt that people completely grasp the entirety of something they proclaim to be a fan of. Yes everyone says that Alexander McQueen was a revolutionary in the fashion industry, even an outlier, but to be quite honest, I feel as if most say it because they've heard others say it. This video, which aired on BBC 2 in 2009, shall hopefully round out that education.

With footage with some of Alexander's earliest shows like the Highlander Rape, the episode is a real gem. It even explains a fact that is very frequently lost on most: it was McQueen who made the bumster cut(which is like a close sibling of the low cut) trouser popular. It also gives some insights into McQueen's purpose for himself during his stint at Givenchy(a stint that I myself often forget).

Below are a few of McQueen's Givenchy looks that I thought were still relevant and even could be found in the shows today.

Day 4 Emerging Designers CFW

2011-03-27T14:51:00.014-04:00

label isobel and cleo
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

If you've ever seen something and known with a sort of innate certainty that you were privvy to something right before it hit mainstream and blew up, then you may have an inkling of what it was like to watch Charlotte Hess's Fall 2011 collection walk down the Charleston Fashion Week runway. The whispers were incessant, and during the finale walk, the crowd rewarded Hess with a standing ovation so there was really no need to even announce that Hess had in fact won both the Judges' Choice and People's Choice award of the night. The collection was done entirely of knitwear and in her preshow video Hess admitted in her own quirky way,

"I hope Stella McCartney sees my knitwear and says 'You are friggin awesome!'"

While Stella McCartney may not have been present, Najee Wilson of Vent Magazine was and didn't hesitate in tweeting "Vent Magazine needs everything Charlotte Hess just sent down the runway!!" He wasn't the only industry person excited as even a few of the judges snapped a few pictures of Hess's collection. Filled with a tribal/ethnic overtone, the collection was majestic in feeling, and made even me swell with pride even though I had nothing to do with it's production.

label Althea
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

Thea Calnas's Fall 2011 collection was most certainly eye catching. Full of bold prints and colors, the collection is composed of Filipino textiles that create what Canlas herself describes as "a more modern take with avant-garde shapes and textures and hints of Victorian details." Canlas, who found out about the competition through Craigslist, cites Hussein Chalayan as well as Alexander McQueen as influences, and always likes to juxtapose concepts and find a healthy meeting point in collections. The collection was most certainly not the first of the night to remind me of a few London designers, and wasn't the last. I did find myself pleased though as the soundtrack featured M.I.A. and Rye Rye.

label La'Daska Mechelle
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

The collection that La'Daska Powell sent down the runway was the second swimwear collection of the competition. Composed of neutral tones with sheer cutouts, the collection seemed to hearken back at some points to Mugler, with the grey one piece that had small shoulder flaps, but throughout seemed to contain an underlying strand that seemed very Versace. While there could have been more editing to ensure cohesion, the collection was still a notable one. Powell's start in evening gowns makes little appearances throughout the collection with little tweaks for the sleeves of the garments.

label Life During Wartime
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fall 2011

Isabel Crosby's collection was labeled as "women's and men's contemporary/street-style wear." While I wasn't quite sure what that was I found myself liking a few pieces. A collection that was one of the most ready to wear of the collections presented, pieces seemed a bit more of the "great thrift store finds" variety than the "standouts on the runway" type. That being said, the pieces were solid pieces, with a hard working seersucker, and even a good bit of military overtones. The cape to me was the most covetable.

Emerging Designers Day 3 CFW

2011-03-26T16:10:00.011-04:00

label Mystery School
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

Michael Wiernicki set about designing a Fall 2011 collection inspired by sacred geometries and abstract patterns that won him the Judges Choice award as well as the People's choice award for Day 3 of the Emerging Designers competition. His designs, which have been called Gaga-like by many, seem to be Victor & Rolf silhouettes splashed with Cassette Playa type prints, both of which he cites as influences. The name of the label, Mystery School comes from the ancient story of secret societies that pass down knowledge and his garments are meant to dress those involved. Chock full of custom digital prints, Wiernicki's favorite piece was the ivory sheath dress with the "all seeing eye" print on the front. The print was originally meant to be leggings.

label Cavortress
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

Julie Wheat's Fall 2011 collection for her label Cavortress was most certainly bright. Eshewing the typical fall/winter labels(and using Swim as her season instead), Wheat designs a collection that happens to be fun, bright, retro, and sexy, all while never stepping over the line from being audacious to showy. The collection, composed mainly of blacks, whites, reds and blues, is very reminiscent of times past as much of her work is. Wheat's collection was one of the most wearable of the bunch, probably because of her familiarity with the industry.

label Eleanor Morgan
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

Eleanor Morgan Hoffman started her Fall 2011 collection with a "photograph of a black perforated surface with amorphous cutouts that allow light to shine through them" as the starting point. After given this explanation the collection began to mean a bit more but prior to that I saw this old world type of glamour that had deteriorated by the passing of time. A glamour that in it's aged state had been repurposed by a younger, edgier woman and brought to life again. The collection, no matter the specifics of the storyline, most certainly had some strong pieces, with the navy blue belted evening gown with the feathered collar being my favorite.

label Sasha Gil
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

Sasha Gil's Fall 2011 collection for her eponymous collection was the epitome of feminine. A dainty whimsical feminine it was not but instead was an empowered, and independent femininity, of the Versace breed. Being able to differentiate between taste level and design/execution ability is sometimes difficult. Gil's collection seems to not be a faltering in taste but instead in execution. Looks like the silver suit that closed left a little to be desired in execution, and others left a little to be desired creatively. With a bit of training, guidance and time, I'm sure Gil could become one to watch.

source | fashionwirepress

Day 2 Emerging Designers CFW

2011-03-24T16:32:00.009-04:00

label Cody Sai
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

Cody Sai Adler-McAllister showed his Fall 2011 collection as an Emerging Designer at Charleston Fashion Week and managed to land both the Judges' Choice award, meaning that on Saturday he will show his full collection, as well as People's Choice which means that he will be awarded with $200. The collection also happened to be one of my personal faves of the night with pieces like the grey long sleeved and belted dress, and the light grey skirt being probably the strongest pieces in a commercial sense. The collection in it's entirety contains this sense of offness which is probably what makes it so covetable. For example, the first look, which is Sai's personal favorite, is actually done on the wrong side of the fabric.

label Stephanie Mejia
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

If Cody Sai was my favorite collection of the night, I'd have to say that Stephanie Mejia would be following right on the train of his dress. Citing influences like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Charles Worth, Meija shows a collection that is mostly dark in color and deconstructed in mood. There is a romanticism about the entire collection that makes it perfectly clear that Mejia can most certainly can design a collection as opposed to the idea of just designing pieces(which is a challenge some new designers face). While the collection did have some looks that piqued my interest to more work from her, like the oversized knit sweater, sadly the collection as a whole wasn't strong enough to warrant the judges push her along to the finals.

label a.d.o.
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

Fashion is weird in the sense that sometimes what the industry loves may not be the same as what the people love(or think they will love). The a.d.o. collection, designed by Anjelika Krishna is a pretty good example. An organic based label, a.d.o. while it does hold some solid pieces seems like just that, pieces. the boat necked top with two paisley seeds emblazoned on the front doesn't seem to really come from the same collection as the orange died floor length fluttering gown that opened the collection. And neither of these seem to fit quite right with two blue short dresses. While the presentation didn't seem to be cohesive, Krishna's talent comes through in pieces like the the granite floor length strapless dress and the white pieces which closed the show.

label Mary Labberton
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

When you see a camoflage printed dress come down the runway preceded by a collar furred romper and followed by a black shirt dress with silver space boots, you may be a little startled. Well while I wasn't startled I wasn't exactly receptive of Mary Labberton's Fall 2011 collection. While it was a collection, there seemed to be a faltering, atleast to me, in taste level.

source | fashionwirepress

Day 1 Emerging Designers CFW

2011-03-23T23:17:00.013-04:00

label Sarah Parrott
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

So on Tuesday, Charleston Fashion Week began. While I haven't been able to go down yet, I will be running down on Friday and I'll also be there Saturday as well. Sarah Parrott was one of the 4 emerging designers to show for opening night and happened to snag my slot for best show of the night. The color blocked collection featured crop tops, leather, and a sort of minimalistic edge that one wouldn't expect with pieces in hot pink red and blue. Parrott also snagged the People's Choice Award but sadly will not be showing the entirety of her collection on Saturday.

label Veritee Hill
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

It was the dark and artistic Veritee Hill collection that managed to get the Judges' pick of the night. This means that the collection, along with it's seemingly young Galliano aesthetic, will move on in the competition and will be show in it's entirety on Saturday. With a bit of black and a bit of latex, Hill designed a collection inspired by Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs du Mal. It actually was the first look that interested me most, with it's hand painted fabric, full skirt, and headpiece. The collection shows that Hill has the artistic ability and executing power to be a directional designer.

label Van Hoang
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

There was something soothing about the Van Hoang collection, soothing and ephemeral. From the dies to the flow of the garments, there was a calming sensation that seemed to sink right down into the models themselves. The pieces themselves were well versed: scarves, shorts, sundresses, and even a gown. Hoang would have to be my runner up for best show of the night because the collection presented was one that was very wearable, and seemed to be molded by a disciplined hand.

label Marie Cordella
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

There was something very London about the Marie Cordella collection. While not "quintessentially London" it most certainly seemed like the up and coming establishment of the city reminding me of designers like Jonathan Saunders and Mary Katrantzou. Cordella cites graphic textural and historical inspirations for her colorful collections that seems driven by a short silhouette. While maybe a little bright for fall, the collection most certainly shows talent.

source | fashionwirepress

FALL: Gareth Pugh 2011

2011-03-22T09:00:00.000-04:00

label Gareth Pugh
season Fall 2011 at Paris Fashion Week
Gareth Pugh as a designer is sometimes described at dark, goth, and post apocalyptic. It's very rare that he is described as religious and yet it could be argued that the sentiment was present in his Fall 2011 collection. The collection itself seemed like a culmination of the collections which proceeded, utilizing various shapes and portraying an assuredness that comes only after a few successfully seasons in the industry. The collection was also a continuation of the small collection that Pugh presented for Pitti Imagine. Featuring the now requisite black, Pugh shakes things up by also using a bright cardinal blue and even an opulent gold. The color is mostly balanced by a scaling back on the the level of intricacy in the actual garments, but instead of seeming like a "dumbed down" version it actually shows Pugh's unwavering sense of taste and what's "just enough. Coming a far ways from his first few seasons in which he sold nothing, Pugh makes it clear why the rumors that he would take over McQueen possibly could have held some weight. His design ability, and artistic aesthetic is sure to only win over more fans as the seasons continue to go by.

EVENT: CCCR Gala at Coplon's

2011-03-21T10:47:00.004-04:00

On this past Saturday I attended the Center for Colon Cancer Research Gala that was apart of the Unmasking Colon Cancer campaign at Coplon's. The 5th Annual Gala, the event featured New York designer Carmen Marc Valvo. While present I did see Anne Postic of The Shop Tart as well as Ebony Looney of Make Me Over Eb and local stylist Brian Maynor. The event was beautifully executed with catering by Duvall Catering and planning and execution by Celebrations. I'd like to say thanks to Meredith of Red Horse Publicity for all of her assistance as well as Cori Hanky of Garnet and Black Magazine for coming with me and taking pictures.

USC President Harris Pastides, First Lady Patricia Moore-Pastides, designer Carmen Marc Valvo
More images and video below the clip

I did take a video but the quality wasn't so good, The Shop Tart did manage to get Carmen's finale speech though.

New Female Model Faces Fall 2011

2011-03-21T09:00:00.004-04:00

For some reason my attention wanes when it comes to female models, but then again I see this as a trend when it comes to womenswear versus menswear. For example, if you take a look at the Tumblr trends, when menswear editorials are reblogged it normally is because of the actual model. It's really about people being a fan of a certain model. When it comes to womenswear, I've noticed it's more about the quality of the image, and the entirety. So the actual wardrobe, the actual shot, and the posing all play into whether the image is reblogged. That's just something I noticed but regardless I did unearth 3 new female model faces I wanted to present to you guys.

Xiao Wen Ju- There has been an absolute influx of Asian influence for the past few months in the fashion industry. There have been a proliferation of Asian designers as well as notable brands investing in the market, and so it would come as no surprise that there were more Asian faces in the lineups this season. A new face I found was Xiao Wen Ju, who preceded the show circuit with spreads in the Chinese editions of Harper's Bazaar and Vogue. While she had apparently become a hot commodity in China, it was this season that she was introduced to the rest of the markets of the world. Xiao is represented by IMG in New York.

Fall 2011: L.A.M.B., 3.1 Phillip Lim, Cynthia Steffe, DKNY, Libertine, Band of Outsiders, Prada, Mugler, Rochas, Kenzo, Hermes, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Ungaro

Colinne Michaelis - I say it time and time again don't I? There are just some positions on the runway, a select few, that guarantee success! So what happens when a model books more than one of those slots? Well we'll surely find out this season as Colinne Michaelis of Silent(Paris) walked an exclusive for Calvin Klein in addition to opening Prada. A fresh face, Michaelis has the makings of a supermodel with a slightly boyish and yet oh so feminine luxury appeal. I'll let her show listing speak for itself.

Fall 2011: Calvin Klein, Blumarine, Bottega Venetta, Dolce & Gabbana, Iceberg, Marni, Missoni, Etro, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Cacharel, Celine, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Lanvin, Loewe, Miu Miu, Nina Ricci, Rochas, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, YSL

photo by Brian Keith

Josephine Skyriver- While not her first season( she's been modeling atleast since Spring 2008), Skyriver has finally stepped onto the international scene. She does so with enough experience that she ends up booking enough shows that she looks like a veteran. Hopefully this precedes a sickening editorial season.

Fall 2011: Rag&Bone, Vivienne Tam, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Preen, DKNY, Cynthia Steffe, Monique Lhuillier, Halston, Libertine, Yigal Azrouel, Ports 1961, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Christian Cota, Elie Tahari, Calvin Klein, Etro, Max Mara, Prada, D&G, Gucci, Alberta Ferretti, Dolce & Gabbana, Pucci, Sportmax, Moschino, Blumarine, Salvatore Ferragamo, Balenciaga, Rochas, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Chloe, Emmanuel Ungaro, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, Chanel, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and Miu Miu

FALL: Lanvin 2011

2011-03-17T12:00:00.006-04:00

label Lanvin
season Fall 2011 at Paris Fashion Week

The Lanvin showing was an interesting study. The entire event was shrouded with a bit of mystery, from the garments themselves to the front row. When people noticed that Jason Wu was sitting front row, the inevitable whispers began. These were only strengthened when Wu revealed that he had been invited to the show by Shaw-Lan Wang herself, the owner of Lanvin. Later after the show news began to circulate that employees of Lanvin were milling around Paris in tears. This led some to believe that Alber Ebaz had been chosen to move into the Dior creative director position and that Jason Wu would be next at the helm for Lanvin. None of the information has been confirmed, and all is speculation, but it does make one wonder about the amount of mystery that seemed to be embedded in the very fibers of the Lanvin Fall 2011 pieces.

For me, Alber Ebaz for Lanvin isn't about trying to be cutting edge, or boundary pushing... instead Ebaz gives women what they want it, in the style that they want it. In an industry based on women it seems that Alber is one of the few to actually care about those that he dresses. Sure there has been many a cloak, and sweater dress, but not Alber's version. It's not only a sweater dress, but an asymmetrical peplum detailed sweater dress, to be worn with a bootie and golden cuff. And it was in this cuff that the exquisite detailing and crafsmanship was found.

With a willow tree as the central component of the show set, it was evident that there would be something organic about the collection. This didn't only manifest itself in the way that the simple black garments that began the show slowly grew into the pieces that composed the beautiful closing garments, but also in the accessories. Cuffs, heels and hair accessories all came adorned with flowers, mostly roses that reflected the black and white rose print found on a few of the dresses.

While it is unconfirmed whether Ebaz will be moving on to Dior, or even leave Lanvin, Alber will always be welcome in this industry. With a heart that is as caring as any, it seems to me that he would be better suited for a house like Chanel though, which is more interested than staying true to it's customer, and finding out what she needs than forging ahead in innovation and taking risks.

MODEL: Lowell Tautchin Fall 2011

2011-03-17T09:00:00.003-04:00

In the span of a season our little Lowell Tautchin has exploded onto the fashion scene. While for the Spring 2011 show season Tautchin booked only 2 shows in one city, for the Fall 2011 season he landed 12, touching down in all of the fashion capitals. Though I have yet to find new editorials since the last update, if casting agents continue booking Lowell as they have for show season we're sure to see him turn up for some work with a European luxury brand or two. He did manage to bag a job for Thomas Engel Hart last season so we only wish him the best! Lowell now has representation in Milan(I Love) as well as his agents at Mode and Soul.

Lowell answers a few questions for us under the clip.

MoaGB: This is the first season you've walked outside of New York, how was the experience?
Lowell Tautchin: The entire European season was phenomenal. I enjoyed the unfamiliarity of my first full season and the traveling aspects that come with it. Making friends, seeing new places, and finding new perspectives are the clichés, but they're truly the best part of working abroad.

MoaGB: Are there any stark difference between the cities you visited(Paris, Milan, New York, London)?
Lowell Tautchin: Paris and New York are complete opposites and yet easily my favorites. Paris is a place where, outside of castings and shows, you have time to explore and take advantage of the laissez-faire culture; grab a coffee, check out some architecture and put your feet up in a cafe terrace.
New York City feels a little more familiar. It has the same urgency, and down to earth people as back home, just with warmer weather and tons of skyscrapers.

MoaGB: Was there any show in particular that was your favorite?
Lowell Tautchin: Prada was one of the best for me. It was a nice staple for the start of the season. The deciding factor was having a group of really good friends doing the same show.

MoaGB: What's the main difference between shows and presentations and which do you prefer?
Lowell Tautchin: Shows hands-down are my favorite. Presentations don't give you the all or nothing feeling.

Runway
Jil Sander Fall 2011

Prada Fall 2011

Pringle of Scotland Fall 2011

Neil Barrett Fall 2011

Thom Browne Fall 2011

Dries Van Noten Fall 2011

Miharayasuhiro Fall 2011 (o,c)

Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2011

Lanvin Fall 2011

Damir Doma Fall 2011

Number: Lab Fall 2011

Duckie Brown Fall 2011

Robert Geller Fall 2011

Richard Chai Fall 2011

Patrik Ervell Fall 2011

Simon Spurr Fall 2011

Siki Im Fall 2011

Rad Hourani Fall 2011

Native Sun Fall 2011

Billy Reid Fall 2011

Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2011

Jose Duran Fall 2011

Alfred Dunhill Fall 2011

Topman Design Fall 2011

FALL: Rad Hourani 2011

2011-03-15T12:00:00.005-04:00

label Rad Hourani
season Fall 2011 at Paris Fashion Week

Though we put a season and a label on every Rad Hourani collection, there shouldn't be. The designer himself refuses to label them in seasons, though they are released during Paris Fashion Week like other collections, but instead labels them with numbers. Rad Hourani #7 is Rad Hourani's equivalent to Fall/Winter 2011/2012 season.

Presenting the collection via film, Rad Hourani presents yet another collection of pieces that are genderless, timeless, and trendless. This time, he chose to use 6 different garments which translate into 22 looks using various zippers attached on the looks. Others that assisted in putting the film together included Patti Wilson in styling and Luc Bouchard in hair and make-up. The two models, Yan and Herieth Paul, both portray this sort of serenity that is required for a project of this nature.

Rad Hourani's evolution in fashion has been one of particular interest to me lately. Though there were some moments in the first few collections that seemed to belie the aesthetic that would be come the embodiment of the brand, collections have been stocked in retailers like Joyce, season after season. The designer himself entered into fashion as a model scout before transitioning into styling and finally design.

It may have been this path that led Hourani to operate the way he does. For example, season after season, since he's begun with the films Hourani has photographed his own looks and sent them out to be published. Polaroids of various models in the looks appear on his blog, very reminiscent of agency polaroids that I find myself poring over late into the night searching for the next model feature.

And by way of styling, we are presented with a label based on the craft. 6 pieces that can be styled into 22 separate looks. No gimmick here but the cold hard art of styling, and what's more the lack of color presents a further challenge as looks can quickly become redundant. With no trendy lace here or polka dots there, a jacket has to be architecturally different every season, or it's blatantly obvious that we're just presented the same pieces and being asked to purchase them again. There has to be a significant design difference that, while the talk about the bill has pretty much died, would place Hourani in a prime spot to have all his designs copy written.

A seasonless and trendless world isn't for everyone, especially not the Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada's of the world, but for some it presents a bit of a challenge that we would gladly take. Utilizing pieces that seem more like a foam shell than anything else, Rad Hourani shows that for him atleast, timeless is the way to go.

MODEL: Noma Han Fall 2011

2011-03-15T09:00:00.002-04:00

photographer Shirley Yu

Noma Han was one of the first models I spotlighted for Model Mondays. There was just something about his look that could go from sort of innocent and docile to strung-out bad boy that intrigued me.

Since that feature though, Han has gone on to be signed to 2morrow(Milan). Editorially he's appeared in Inked and in China's I.T. Post Magazine and has already started the Spring 2011 editorial season right with edits in Blackbook, and Vogue Hommes Japan. The Fall 2011 runway season was Noma's 3rd and he walked for(or was in presentations for) Buckler, Asher Levine, Tim Hamilton, Odyn Vovk, General Idea, and Gilded Age.

A short Q&A with Noma below the clip

MoaGB: How was this season compared to your last?
Noma Han: This season was just decent because last season I did a few shows but I can't say it was really good.

MoaGB: You're currently repped by Red in New York and 2morrow in Milan, is there any city you'd like to be signed next?
Noma Han: I really want to sign with an agency in London so bad.

MoaGB: When you're doing the shows, what do you miss most?
Noma Han: When I'm doing the shows I don't miss anything, I just focus on the show. I guess I can't think of more than one thing at the moment and I just enjoy the shows :)

Other Editorials
Blake Mag
The Ones 2 Watch
Fiasco
The Fashionisto
Nylon Guys

New Male Model Faces Fall 2011

2011-03-14T08:00:00.005-04:00

Jack Vanderhart, Jack Manhood, Tomas Guarracino, Tim Meiresone

During the fashion weeks, I took a break from Model Mondays. As a matter of fact I took a break from learning new models period. I refused to frequent the forums, and I was content in staying with the little list that I had built up of names, and not expand. Well now that fashion week is over, I couldn't deny myself. I had to go back and find a few models to make up for lost times and these are my new male model faces for the Fall 2011 season... well to start us off at least.

Jack Vanderhart- Jack Vanderhart was one of the chosen boys for the show season. When I heard through the grapevine that a new boy had wrangled a Calvin Klein exclusive, and he was based out of Australia with a scar on his cheek, I could only shake the grapevine to see what would fall out. Out fell 16 year old Vanderhart who's been shot for a Hot Boys & Cute Dogs Calendar, GQ, and Vogue Austalia. There's just something about that scar on that perfect cheekbone that screams shoot me, and I forsee a strong editorial season for Jack. Jack is represented by VNY(New York) and EMG(Australia)

Fall 2011 Runway-Calvin Klein

Jack Manhood- To be entirely honest I laughed when I heard his name. I laughed while looking at the polaroid and accessing a face that seemed so now, so of the moment that my laugh trailed off. With no particularly stunning credits to his name, besides some work for Topman, Jack has a look that says relevant to me. Maybe a little cuckoo, and if I am then so be it but Mr. Manhood is going to have to be my wild card of the bunch.
Jack is represented in London(FM) and Paris(Success)

Fall 2011 Runway - Cassette Playa, Christopher Shannon

Tomas Guarracino- Mr. Guarracino almost got passed over when I was looking for new faces. The reason was I saw his face in so many top Milan shows I was positive that he had to have a bit of experience. The Calvin Klein Spring 2011 ad is what made me look him up and I found that, he was indeed a newbie but certainly one with a strong future ahead of him.

Tomas is with Bananas(Paris), Wilhelmina, Civilies(Argentina).

Fall 2011 Runway: Hermes, D&G, Ermenegildo Zegna, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, and Robert Geller(he also walked in Buenos Aires Fashion Week).

Tim Meiresone- The opener of the Prada show, Tim Meiresone has already bagged a coveted runway position. Now whether or not he'll follow up with the needed editorial season to ensure that he's one to watch and possibly bank on, we have yet to know. He has surely gotten off to a good start though in a Vogue Hommes Japan editorial. Meiresone already has representation in Paris(Nathalie), Milan(Independent), Copenhagen(Scoop), and where his mother agency is located in Brussels(Dominique).

Fall 2011 runway: Prada, Costume National, Canali, Z Zegna, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Cerruti

The Tale of Ophelia

2011-03-13T18:30:00.000-04:00

Her name is Ophelia

Three were called, but one was chosen.

Once upon a time there was a Gallivanting Boy. One day, after months of frustration over what he had become in his own personal style, the boy took a journey to a small concrete jungle named 5 Points. In search of a new look, a new proposition, the Gallivanting Boy visited store after store, trying on this piece, and that piece, looking for the right fit, the right color, and the right shade.

Along the way, our Gallivanting Boy stumbled upon 3 animals: a silver leopard, a golden owl with perfect green jeweled eyes, and a silver eagle. Startled and taken by all three, but short on time, the Gallivanting Boy promised the animals that he would return later on in the week in order to become better acquainted.

The next day when the boy woke, he couldn't get the thought of his three animal friends out of his head. He decided that due to a few new resources at his disposal, he would return to the jungle, search out his friends, and take them home with him. Upon return to the concrete jungle our Gallivanting Boy found only one of his buddies, and as he retreated home with her, she whispered her name: Ophelia.

Everyone welcome Ophelia to the family

(purchased from Sid&Nancy)

FALL: Valentino 2011

2011-03-12T12:00:00.004-05:00

label Valentino
season Fall 2011 at Paris Fashion Week

When you are able to see two gowns from the same house, side by side together, created by two different designers, it's much easier to tell the direction that the house is now moving in. For the house of Valentino, this could clearly be done during the Oscar's red carpet as Anne Hathaway walked the carpet in a vintage Valentino Couture designed by Valentino Garavani himself, while celebs like Florence Welch wore more recent gowns designed by the new house designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli. While both gowns were beautiful and elegant, there were most certainly visual differences. Garavani's Valentino was bold, a little more sure of itself, and held within it an old school couture flourish while Chiuri and Piccioli's counter part seemed a little younger, lighter, and fresher. It seemed as if one may have been looking at the gowns of a mother and daughter.

For Fall 2011 the penchant for lighter, younger, and fresher seemed to stay with the Valentino brand. With a color palette composed mainly of nudes(with a dash of blush), and jewel tones, the Valentino woman seems to have morphed into more of a Valentino girl. Peter pan colors, short school girl cut skirts, and a variety of demurely cut separates, all hearken to a youthful sort of countenance.

It may have been the hair band in the hair, sheer tops, or laced sleeves that sealed the deal though. Paired with fluttering pleated chiffon skirts, and the pointed toe heels that seem to be becoming a staple of the house, while not a refusal of the DNA of the house, it sure seems to be a reworking of it. And of course it was the ruffle that excited me most, or the absence of it. I spotted denim in the collection, a continuation of the first time the house used the material last season, but no ruffle. The designers had effectively shunned their "go to" item for christening a collection as "Valentino" and yet still accurately portrayed the brand.

As former accessories designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have taken to accentuate many looks with bags and miniscule belts that are nothing short of spectacular. Utilizing leather(sometime python as in the boots) and studs, the accessories give the collection a tad bit of an edge that comes expected whenever going for a younger audience, but juxtapose that with a parade of fluttering, sheer gowns to close the show.

source | style

PERSONAL: Fusion Bowl

2011-03-11T02:19:00.004-05:00

After a long show season I think it's only right to treat yourself to a little meal. Well treat yourself is always relative, as my mother treated me(entirely her idea actually, although she never considered show season the reason). But anywho, mom called and I slid into a flannel, jeans, and a leather to tip out to Fusion Bowl where the music was oh so right.

"I am not Jasmine I am Aladdin"

Jasmine Tea- So with my meal I ordered a bit of Jasmine Tea. Came in a cute little pot with a cute little matching cup and I was only surprised that the water didn't seem to be as hot as it should. The water was the same temperature that I would drink hot tea at, meaning that by the time I allowed the leaves to steep, poured it, and added my honey it was lukewarm... by the second cup it was tepid at best. Sadly, that seamed to be a theme of the night.

Miso Soup- I chose a little Miso Soup to start off with. I'd never had it before but I'm always up for something new. A little tofu, mixed with miso soup paste, seaweed, green onions, and scallions and it was certainly a healthy number. Not too hot, again just the right eating temperature when it reached me, which meant that by the time I was halfway done with the bowl, I could lift it and comfortable drink the rest... which I refrained from doing(till I reached too low for the spoon to scoop).

Main Course- For my main course I had Fusion Bowl Sushi, Seaweed Salad, Fried Rice, and Hibachi Chicken. While I forgot about the picture until I was mostly done with the meal I will not forget my impression. Sushi- good, Salad-I've only had seaweed salad twice before and it didn't have lettuce with it, and certainly not brown lettuce. Fried Rice- not many ways to mess that up. Hibachi Chicken- while it was a tad on the dry side, I did like the baby corn and mushrooms that were cooked with it.

For $9.95 the meal was a good deal(early bird special til 6:30). While it most certainly wasn't the best I ever had, it was good for the price we paid.

5166 Sunset Blvd

Lexington, SC 29072

(803)996-1333

FusionBowlSC.com